The wine market in the United States is one of the most attractive in the world. As of 2020, the country comes in fourth in volume of wine production and sixth in acreage under vine — and yet first in consumption, according to data from the International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV). It is also one of the strongest import markets in the world, with wine from Italy, Australia, and France lining the shelves of U.S. wine merchants ahead of all other countries.
A presentation from Full Circle Wine Solutions, Inc., a global wine and spirits education and public relations firm out of San Francisco, revealed an interesting look back in time to provide context on what Americans like to drink. The top table wines imported into the U.S. in 1981 were highly populated with Italian wines. Riunite Lambrusco was at the top of the list, with more than five times the cases imported than the next up, which were Cella Lambrusco and Giacobazzi Lambrusco. After that were two more wines from Italy: Folonari Soave and Bolla Soave. Americans certainly valued Italian wines in the early 80s, just as we do today. And notice a theme? We tend to get hooked on particular wines.
Sara d'Amato, a Toronto-based wine consultant, writer, and sommelier points out that 13 grapes make up a third of the plantings around the world. “We are really stuck on certain noble varieties,” she says. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo, and Chardonnay top the list along with Airén which is typically associated with Spain’s brandy industry, so its not as crafted into table wines as much as the other top players.
But there’s also another interesting twist, says d’Amato. In Italy, that tried-and-true for American wine lovers, 80 varieties represent 75% of the planted area. Different numbers are quoted by various sources, but there are over 1,000 grapes cultivated here, with several hundred of them propagated for commercial winemaking. Portugal, Romania, U.S., and Chile are the runners up in this category, but with significantly less diversity. In the U.S. for example, around 20 grape varieties represent 75% of the vineyard coverage.
Evan Goldstein, master sommelier and co-founder of Full Circle Wine Solutions along with Limeng Stroh, says that when this data is absorbed “prismatically” it seems as if U.S. consumers may be searching for some unexpected bottles to spice up their drinking patterns. He describes unexpected as from an overlooked place, something unusual, or something that’s just coming onto the radar.
Here are some of my suggestions for unexpected wines to explore this fall and winter season. The list even includes a classic favorite, but with an unlikely twist: Lambrusco.
Cleto Chiarli Brut de Noir Rosé Spumante NV ($16)
As the name suggests, this one is pink, thanks to a small amount of skin contact. Crafted with Lambrusco Grasparossa and a portion of Pinot Nero, the wine has fresh strawberry flavors and mouthwatering crispness. This one would make an excellent aperitif or salty snack companion, an unexpected way to enjoy Lambrusco of a different color.
Acquiesce Winery Clairette Blanche 2018 ($28)
Found hardly at all in California, Sue Tipton’s one acre of Clairette Blanche in the Mokelumne River appellation in Lodi, is home to clones from cuttings from Château de Beaucastel in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region where Clairette is one of the permitted grapes in the iconic blend. Aromatic, dry, and mineral-driven this wine will pair with poultry, spicy food, or pasta dishes.
Wieninger Wiener Gemischter Satz 2020 ($15 - $20)
From biodynamic vineyards in Vienna, this is wine style is historically relevant for the region. Gemischter Satz is a field blend of several varieties which are grown together in the vineyard, then harvested at the same time and co-fermented. Are you ready for this? It includes Grüner Veltliner, Weißburgunder, Welschriesling, Chardonnay — plus tidbits of Riesling, Rotgipfler, Zierfandler, Sylvaner, Traminer, and Neuburger. It tastes fresh and clean with aromatic stone fruit notes. Pair with pasta or vegetarian dishes, could even put it with a pot pie.
La Valentina Pecorino Colline Pescarese IGT 2019 ($18)
Beautiful Abruzzo, between mountains and sea, is commonly associated with Montepulciano and Trebbiano, but another white grape — Pecorino — is making its way back on the scene. Some would say it’s been rediscovered, as it was so unfavored over the years that it was nearly pushed to extinction. Interesting examples are beginning to make their way into the U.S. market, such as this complex version from La Valentina, a producer that doesn’t use any international varieties, relying instead on Italian cultivars. Pair with grilled seafood and shellfish dishes.
Gecaj Estate Owners Choice 2017 ($80)
Yes, this is a blend of varieties we all know and love, but Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from the Rahovec Valley in Kosovo is not your everyday wine for most U.S. wine consumers. This region has a 2,000 year old winemaking history, and the grapes grown for this bottle come from a single vineyard “Izbishte” and are harvested by hand and meticulously cultivated. Enjoy dark fruit and berry flavors on a silky mouthfeel. Pair with rich, meaty dinners or mushroom dishes.
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October 29, 2021 at 08:26AM
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Overlooked, Unusual, Or New To The Scene: Trying Unexpected Wines - Forbes
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